Remember when highlighter was a one-shade-fits-all solution? No more. At the Christopher Kane show during spring ’18 London Fashion Week, makeup artists used up to five (!!) highlighters to create face sheen on a diverse cast of otherwise bare-faced models. At Alexander Wang and 3.1 Phillip Lim in New York, three different hues were applied as blush to achieve a bronzer-light effect. What hasn’t changed: Regardless of how pale or dark your skin may be, your undertone—the hue that lies beneath skin’s surface—still determines which illuminator will look best on you.

To figure out yours, try this test: Do your veins appear greenish? Your undertone is likely warm. Are they a deep blue? In that case, you’re probably more cool. And if your veins appear bright turquoise, consider yourself neutral.

Golden illuminators blend well with warm undertones; try icier hues if you’re cool. For more neutral types, opt for rose gold. And experiment with paler or darker versions of these hues depending on your skin tone. The goal is to create a tone-on-tone effect that’s going to make your face appear lit-from-within.

Step 1: Lumi skin needs the perfect base. Prep skin by cleansing then apply a soothing, exfoliating toner using a cotton pad. And, as always, avoid the eye area! Try: Physicians Formula Charcoal Detox Cleansing Stick; Pixi Beauty Glow Tonic


Step 2: To create an all-over radiance, start by mixing a pea-sized amount of liquid luminizer with your foundation. Apply an even layer of the mixture, starting from the nose and blending outward and over the eyelids (avoid placing too much around the outer portion of your face). Add a light layer of powder foundation to set. Try: Physicians Formula The Healthy Foundation; L’Oréal Paris True Match Lumi Glotion


Step 3: Now it’s time to shine! To create natural-looking depth, try a highlighting trio palette. (Again, choose a set of hues based on your skin’s undertone.) Start with the darkest shade to create a soft contour along your inner cheekbones. Next, use the brightest of the three hues to graze the high points of your face: the tops of cheekbones and brow bones, along your forehead, down the bridge of your nose, a dash on your chin. Finally, use the in-between shade to go over the spots you just hit. You can even dab the centre of your eyelids for an extra pop of glimmer! Try: Nude by Nature Highlight Palette


Step 4: To complete the lumi look, all you need is a bit of volumizing mascara and the perfect neutral lip. Use the tip of the wand to wiggle from the base of your lashes, moving outward so you don’t miss a hair! Layer until you get your desired effect. For the final touch, glide on a liquid lipstick that will set to a matte, creamy finish that won’t compete with all the brilliance you’ve got going on elsewhere. Try: Maybelline Total Temptation Mascara; Quo Lip Velour in Angelic