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We’re all familiar with the beauty benefits of mega-watt strobing and cheekbone-popping contouring. These techniques have the power to practically reshape a face—or at least create that illusion in a photograph. (For evidence, take a quick scroll through Instagram before-and-afters.)

But how do you use highlighter in real life—especially now that it’s summertime and the glowin’ is easy? Simple: You look to the fresh faces on the runways as inspiration and dial everything back a notch (or three). The new goal is dewy skin that looks like you #wokeuplikethis—more radiant than ever, after the best beauty sleep. If you’re in a “breezy-does-it mood” this season, try these now-trending highlighting techniques.

1. Prep your canvas.
Dewiness makes skin appear instantly youthful, but you don’t want a full-face glare—especially not under bright summer sunlight, when too much all-over radiance can look as flattering as an oil spill. The solution? Start with an illuminating yet velvety-matte primer, like Urban Decay Optical Illusion Complexion Primer, which goes on with a subtle pink tint but dries down to a translucent, soft-focus finish. If you have combination skin, you can concentrate your oil-control product on the T-zone—your forehead, nose and chin.

2. Keep your base light.
To suit summer’s laidback vibe, trade your full-coverage foundation for a sheer tinted moisturizer such as Marcelle Sheer Tint Fluid Moisturizer SPF 15, or blend a dollop of brightening moisturizer or serum into your regular base. If you find you still need more coverage, go back in with a creamy full-coverage concealer such as Estée Lauder Double Wear Waterproof All Day Extreme Wear Concealer: Use a flat brush to pat it on blemishes, dark circles, sun spots or broken capillaries. Consider it a shortcut to luminosity.

3. Highlight strategically.
Throw the spotlight on key features by applying your highlighting product onto the areas that makeup artists call “the high planes of the face.” Where’s that? The places that would naturally catch the sun—the tops of your cheekbones, the brow bones, above the brows, the bridge of your nose, your cupid’s bow and your chin. Don’t be afraid to experiment with multiple highlighting shades—peachy, golden, rose-gold—like the trio of options in Smashbox Spotlight Palette.

4. Add dimension.
If you want to take your “lit from within” glow up a notch but you still want to keep the effect natural-looking, there’s an easy solution: Avoid going overboard with shimmer, and play with texture or placement instead. You can gild your lips and lids with a pretty, sheer sheen by blending the creamy, rose-gold RMS Beauty Master Mixer with your favourite lipstick or cream eyeshadow, for instance. You can also get a highlighted but matte finish by setting your makeup with a delicate dusting of “banana powder” (so-called because of its yellow tone) like Rodial Instaglam Compact Deluxe Banana Powder, which brightens while colour-correcting any redness.